Eleven walkers set off from House of the Binns with clear views across the Forth to Fife & the Ochils as we walked through the grounds, spotting some beautiful autumn crocus & learning a little of the estates history before climbing through the woods to reach the folly known as Binns Tower. This is a feature in the landscape seen from miles around & we learnt was built as the result of an after-dinner wager. From here we also enjoyed views looking south & although the Pentland ridge was covered in a cloud/fog we could make out the outline & could clearly see other local landmarks such as Binny Craig, radio masts on Cairnpapple Hill & Linlithgow Palace etc.
Our route then took us through woodland & across a field with some inquisitive onlookers before following a track through Midhope Glen to pass Midhope Castle. This is still a very popular site to visit having been used for filming of Outlander as ‘Lallybroch’, home of Jamie Fraser. We passed a few excited tourists on their way to visit it. Although we didn’t pay to visit the castle, we did catch a glimpse of it as we passed by before heading to Abercorn village.
We visited the Abercorn Museum with its older stones dating back to Viking times before walking through the churchyard. The church sadly wasn’t open today however we learnt a little about its history & features to look out for when we visit again such as the private aisles created for three major families in the area: the Dalyells of House of Binns, the Hamiltons & the Hopes & the ‘Hopetoun Loft’ built for the residents of Hopetoun House who had their own private entrance to the Church!
The gravestones date back to the 1600s before widespread literacy, so many of them have symbols to represent the deceased, rather than words. The symbols include emblems of mortality - skulls, bones & hour glasses, emblems of immortality such as angels, cherubs & doves & trade symbols such as anvils & horseshoe for blacksmith.
Continuing around the Church building we found a path which descended into the Wester Shore Wood which we walked through to reach Blackness. With trees having been cut down last year we were treated to views across the Forth & of Blackness Castle. Once out of the woods we stopped for lunch & afterwards continued our journey into the village.
Stopping outside the pub, the Lobster Pot which is brightly coloured, & quite a focal point for the village centre, we learnt how after being closed for many years, the current owners breathed new life into it & also opened up the attached village shop. Having just eaten our lunch we didn’t visit inside today but a good excuse to return & venture inside next time.
We learnt about Robert Burns visit to the area in 1787 having been obliged to leave Bo’ness after being rude about it. He was much more impressed with Blackness however & wrote a poem about it which I read to the group.
Walking along the coast we headed to Blackness Castle & learnt about its fascinating history. It was originally built as a home for a nobleman, but its chief use was as a garrison stronghold & state prison. Its distinctive shape from sea makes it appear not as a castle but as a ship & fooled the crew of the German submarine U-21 in 1914 when they ventured up the Forth & raised their periscope. After seeing the castle, they decided to go no further!
After learning a few legends about ghosts in the castle which brought laughter & smiles of disbelief from some of the group, (better to be forewarned!) we followed the coast back to the start of Wester Shore Wood & following a different path heading back up to the House of Binns estate.
Our last point of interest on the route today was General Tam’s Smokehouse, where he would have once enjoyed a quiet contemplative smoke away from the house & used by staff of the house to smoke fish & meat. Passing the house once more we returned to our cars & headed home. Photo credit – Alison C & Avril H
Natalie C
